I would rather have it flat shooting out to 100 and know to hold over exactly 12' at 200y than have to remember all of the up and down for close up shots. My 6.25' KAK barrel will almost giving me 7.5-8' velocities with a 110gr at 1850-1900 fps. Synthetic-aperture radar (SAR) is a form of radar that is used to create two-dimensional images or three-dimensional reconstructions of objects, such as landscapes. SAR uses the motion of the radar antenna over a target region to provide finer spatial resolution than conventional beam-scanning radars.
View QuoteThat's a wee bit of a stretch for 300BLK but not far off. Zero at 33 yards for a 12.5' barrel, 110gr, 2270fps, 2 inch sight height (probably closer to 2.5 or 3' for an AR) and your max height is about 1.5' at about 90 yards but you're down almost 4 inches at 200. You're -2' at 180 yards so this wouldn't be a bad plan.This is where I kinda smile at all this talk about no one ever needing more than 8 or 9 inches for 300BLK. At that barrel length you're right around 2000-2050 FPS and the arc gets worse. Obviously it all depends on your purpose and ranges but just a couple more inches has a pretty significant impact.Oh, and that's for a 110gr bullet! Go up to a 120, 135 or 150gr and you've got a real rainbow at 1,600-1,700 fps.If you're firing subs I don't think it matters so much.
You want the shorter length to stay subsonic.-Stooxie. Subs for suppressed close range outdoors or (by definition close range) indoors. If the range is beyond the close zero you're in a really weird indoor location.I got into ARs when I realized there was a.30 option for a standard action AR.
I already have a 7.62x51, a l1a1, and it's not my go to defensive weapon. Plus, putting a suppressor on it would make nearly a 60' long weapon.
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Not really usable indoors. But a 10' barrel 300blk with a reflexed 8' suppressor is super usable and quiet enough to not cause instantaneous hearing loss indoors. It's much easier to put a red dot and a light on an AR than a pistol and the 30 round magazine vs 12 (for either of my.40SW) makes it a better choice to grab.I just zero the long guns at 50yds and call it win. For supers of any reasonable type just go 2' high at 100 yards. You will be just high at 50 yds and good all out to 200+ yds. Subs will be about 4-6'low @ 100 yds. At 50 yds,subs will be hitting low.What I tried with a PA 1-4x scope was this: It has a 6moa crosshair, so I zeroed my supers to hit the 'bottom tip' of the top crosshair at 100 yds (3' high).
Subs were then 3' low (6' lower than supers) at 100 yds (top tip of bottom crosshair). At 50 yards the supers were between the center dot and top crosshair tip.
Subs were very near POI=POA.It worked on the range, but only at 4x. My eye had a hard time lining up the crosshair bars so I gave up on this and put a red dot on mine zeroed 2-3' high at 100 yds for supers and I just don't worry about hitting anything with subs. What kind of sight are you using? Try the Nikon spot-on ballistic calculator.
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Is mainly used to tell you the hold over points on any of there reticles but you can also use the zero/target distance feature to tell you what drop you will have at certain distances compared to where you have it sighted in at.The 25, 50, and 100 yard zero are all within 1-2' of each other at 100 but where it really makes a difference is when you start to get out to 200-300 yards. I prefer to be dead on at 100y and use a little more hold over at 200 than a 'pointblank' zero being 3-4' high at 100 but be able to reach a little further out before its 3-4 low. I would rather have it flat shooting out to 100 and know to hold over exactly 12' at 200y than have to remember all of the up and down for close up shots.My 6.25' KAK barrel will almost giving me 7.5-8' velocities with a 110gr at 1850-1900 fps. The Nikon P223 3x32 with 'carbine calibrated' reticle lets me zero at 100 and the corresponding holdover marks are exactly 200,300,and 350 yards.